The Brown Cow Chatburn All articles
Pub Life

Hand-Cut vs Deep-Fried: The Night Our Regulars Judged the Great Chatburn Chip Off

The Brown Cow Chatburn
Hand-Cut vs Deep-Fried: The Night Our Regulars Judged the Great Chatburn Chip Off

Photo: Ser Amantio di Nicolao, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Every village has its dividing lines. In Chatburn, they're drawn in batter and beef dripping.

On one side of the road (give or take a lane), there's us: The Brown Cow, home of the hand-cut chip, the Sunday roast and the open fire. On the other, there's the chippy — a single, unassuming shopfront that has fed this village longer than most of us have been alive. And between us? A rivalry so gentle it barely qualifies as one, and so enduring that neither side would dream of ending it.

It came to a head, as these things do, over a pint in November.

Where the Lines Are Drawn

Let's be clear about the territories. We don't do fish and chips on a Friday — that's their patch, and we'd no more poach it than we'd serve gravy with the wrong accent. In return, they've never attempted a pie, a roast or anything involving a Yorkshire pudding. There is an unspoken treaty, older than most of the staff on both sides.

The friction points are narrower, but they burn bright. Chips, obviously. We cut ours from Maris Pipers every morning, twice-fried, salted with the good stuff. They do theirs in a proper frier, golden and floppy in exactly the way a chip from paper should be. Then there's gravy — a subject this pub has strong views on, as regular readers will know. The chippy pours theirs over everything. We consider that a lifestyle choice rather than a culinary one.

And then there's Friday night. The busiest chip window in the village falls between six and eight, and we've learned not to compete. Our Friday specials go out early, the chippy queue forms, and everybody wins.

The Chip Off

But talk is cheap, and after one particularly spirited debate at the corner table, we decided to settle it properly. A blind taste-off. Fifty portions, two chip camps, no labels. The judges: whoever happened to be in the bar that Thursday, which turned out to be a surprisingly rigorous panel of dog walkers, darts players and one very opinionated retired schoolteacher.

The scoring was simple. Crispness, fluff, salt, and the all-important 'would you order it again'. We supplied ours plain; the chippy supplied theirs the same way, transported across the village in a fit of mutual trust neither of us mentions anymore.

The Verdict

The results, we'll admit, stung a little. The chippy took the crispness round — that frier of theirs is a precision instrument, and we're not too proud to say so. We clawed back the fluff category, thanks entirely to the Maris Pipers. Salt was a tie, because everyone salted differently and the whole exercise descended into laughter.

The final score, after much arguing and one recount: a draw. A genuine, honest-to-goodness draw, which the regulars declared was 'about right for the village'.

Grudging Respect, Fully Earned

Here's the truth underneath the banter: a village this size needs both of us. They do the Friday tea that gets eaten on a bench overlooking the Ribble. We do the slow Sunday that starts with gravy and ends with nobody wanting to leave. There's room in Chatburn for a floppy chip in paper and a chunky one on a slate, and pretending otherwise would be daft.

The head of the chippy came in for a pint after the judging. He called our chips 'posh'. We called his 'dangerously moreish'. Then we split a bag of scraps and agreed to do it all again next year.

If that's a war, long may it rumble on.

All Articles

Related Articles

From Ploughman's to Pudding: We Tasted Our Way Through the Menu With Local Ales (So You Don't Have To)

From Ploughman's to Pudding: We Tasted Our Way Through the Menu With Local Ales (So You Don't Have To)

Tuesday at Six and Other Secrets: The Landlord Spills the Booking Diary

Tuesday at Six and Other Secrets: The Landlord Spills the Booking Diary

The Corner Seat by the Fire: In Praise of Britain's Most Underrated Dining Institution

The Corner Seat by the Fire: In Praise of Britain's Most Underrated Dining Institution